I first saw a great deal of interest in felted fabrics last year at the Maison Objet show in Paris, and at that point identified this as possibly a significant design trend. So when a major exhibit at the high profile Cooper Hewitt Museum was scheduled, it peeked my interest even more.

Cooper Hewitt Museum
While visiting the Fashioning Felt Exhibit at the Cooper Hewitt Museum in New York City, I gained a new appreciation for the many uses for this material and it’s long history as an art form. This exhibit featured felted textiles as works of art and fashions, but also as architectural materials. We think of felt as an aesthetic material, but it can serve specific technical functions as well.
But first some felt history–
The definition of this word is very interesting–it is both a noun and a verb. As a noun, it is described as a cloth made of natural or synthetic fiber created through the application of heat, moisture, and pressure.

felted flowers-Maison Objet
As a verb, it means to handle or touch in order to examine. Felt is both a design material and the process by which that material is constructed. Thus, I love the pun–”might it be felt”?

felted stones
Earliest forms of felt were used by nomadic tribes while traveling the legendary routes through Mongolia, China and Turkey not only as clothing, but also as portable tents called “yurts”.
Felt has a unique history as both a medium for craft and for industry. It can be constructed thin and transparent as well as thick and dense.

recycled materials
Felt can be constructed firm enough to literally be carved with a saw, just like wood. Notice this rug, on left, and how it resembles stacked stone. It can be made in sheets or can be as diverse as 3 dimensional shapes like furniture.
Felted materials saw it’s first wave of interest in the fiber arts movement of the 1970’s. This era served as the catalyst for a great deal of field research over the past 3 decades. Thus a renewed awareness of intergrating traditional craft

felted scarfs
techniques with design — and a concern for sustainability, have inspired many artisits to revisit this medium. This interest combines the new technology of tools and synthetic dyes with traditional handcraft. Many artists feel that felt is perceived as a truly authentic material.
At the Fashioning Felt exhibit, several of the apparel pieces were crafted directly onto body forms.

felted apparel
They utilized a combination of natural fibers–wool, silk and cotton. When we take a closer look at the combinations of these various fibers, they create some interesting contrasts of luster and texture. These are similar to the looks we try to emulate currently in the development of new textile products.
The exhibit featured textiles not only as works of art but also as architectural materials.

interior walls
The interior walls of the museum conservatory were draped with this beautiful hand made textile and gave one the feeling of being inside a huge sheer tent. Each wonderful crafted piece of fabric was unique in pattern and subtle coloration.
Felt has an appeal to designers who don’t normally work in textiles. It can be cut without fraying and therefore requires no finishing. And even more appealing, felt can be made from partially or fully recycled materials. The remnants or by products can be remade into multiple other products.
Designer Gaetano Pesce used high density felts to create his Cassina chair, which blurrs the lines between structure and upholstery. Felt can also be used for sound absorbing ceiling or wall panels.
The exhibit also featured audiovisuals that walk the visitor step by step through the process of feltmaking. One that is still somewhat primative in nature. The exhibit closes very soon but if you missed seeing it, be sure to order the overview book from the Cooper Hewitt Museum store–it’s a worthwhile investment. Ann